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| Marie
Laveau's Tomb 1 |
New
Orleans is known for its music, diverse culture and Mardi
Gras but below the surface of this vibrant city lies a totally unique
religion created from African, Haitian and Western cultures.
NEW ORLEANS HISTORY
Founded in 1718 by the French
Mississippi Company, New Orleans
was named Nouvelle Orleans for Phillipe II, Duke of Orléans. In 1763,
New Orleans was claimed by the Spanish Empire and remained so for the next 40
years until, in 1801, the French gained control again. Then, two years later,
Napoleon sold it to the United States
in the Louisiana Purchase. At this point, the city's French, American and Creole
populations swelled.
New Orleans was a main port
for the United States and, therefore, played a substantial role in the slave
trade. It was due to this influx of immigrants that Voodoo became a part of
its rich and unique culture.
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Voodoo
Altar 2 |
VOODOO
Louisiana Voodoo is
often confused with the Haitian Vodou and Hoodoo, when in fact it is a combination
of the two. It shares the same spirits as Vodou, though Voodoo puts more emphasis
on the magical elements like the Hoodoo, which is an African form of traditional
folk magic. This focus on the magical side is a noticeable marker of Francophone
Louisiana Voodoo, and it was through this that the term voodoo doll was introduced
to the American language.
History
Voodoo developed within the French and Creole African American populations of
Louisiana when the Roman Catholic and African cultures collided during the slave
trade. Slaves were forced to convert to Catholicism under penalty of death,
so to appease the slave owners, elements of West African, native Caribbean and
Catholic beliefs were combined in an attempt to reconcile the differences. This
resulted in many of the Loa, the spirits of the Voodoo religion, resembling
Roman Catholic saints. Often one will see figures of saints on Voodoo altars
and the Catholic influence can also be seen in the use of candles, bells, crosses,
prayers and the practice of baptism.
Beliefs
Followers of Voodoo believe in one supreme God, more abstract than most religions,
and below this God the Loa, which are best described as spirits, rule
over the world and all the happenings within it, from family issues to legal
justice. Offerings are made to the Loa to ensure issues in life are taken
care of. Each individual Loa has a different fruit, color, number and
natural element, such as lightening, associated with it. It has been said that
the word Loa comes from the French word Loi, meaning law, though
there is no direct proof of this. These spirits help humans end bad luck, assist
with marriages and help with healing.
Rituals
Voodoo rituals occur to make contact with a Loa and to gain their favor
or help with a problem. A priest, houngan, or a priestess, called a mambo,
is usually involved. Before the ceremony begins a feast is shared, then a pattern
made out of flour is sprinkled on the floor specific to the Loa. To invoke
the Loa, worshippers dance, drum, and chant. As the event starts to peak
the Loa will take possession of a dancer, usually a hounsis, a
student studying Voodoo. This possession results in a trance-like state enabling
the possessed to perform cures as well as give advice.
Voodoo Misconceptions
Hollywood has twisted
Voodoo into an evil and dark religion when, in fact, it is relatively peaceful
with its main purpose being healing, whether it is one's self or others. Though
there are some Voodoo beliefs that are hard to comprehend, like the belief that
zombies are real, the best way for curious travelers to learn more is to head
to New Orleans and
see for themselves.
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| St.
Louis Cathedral 3 |
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VOODOO TOURS AND PLACES
OF INTEREST
The Big Easy is full of tour companies and operators willing to take visitors
into the realm of true Louisiana
Voodoo. One should remember that these tours should be taken with a grain
of salt, as the best stories are the most embellished ones.
The
New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum offers a few different Voodoo tours.
The Voodoo/Cemetery Walking Tour takes visitors through the French
Quarter's haunted houses, a Voodoo pharmacy and the oldest cemetery
in New Orleans. The
spooky Tour of the Undead winds through the city at nightfall taking in the
nocturnal Voodoo culture which is sure to send a few shivers through spines.
When a tour departs from
Reverend
Zombie's Voodoo Shop, one realizes that they are in for a bit of a giggle.
Many of the offered tours from Haunted
History Tours start at this local shop. They explore the mysterious,
hidden and humorous side of Voodoo. A slew of other tour options are also offered
by this company.
Bloody
Mary Tours provides insight into Voodoo as well as New
Orleans' history and folklore. Run by a native New Orleans woman, known
as Bloody Mary, guests can partake in numerous tours with this ordained Voodoo
mambo. The Voodoo Tour offered covers some historical
monuments important to the religion.
Congo Square, now Armstrong
Park and known as the birthplace of jazz, was a gathering place for
the slaves. It was here that they would perform traditional dances and songs.
There is no evidence that Voodoo rituals actually took place here but it definitely
provided a place where they could freely express their culture. Many longstanding
Voodoo practitioners see the square as a spiritual base.
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St.
Louis Cemetery One 4 |
Marie Laveau was a free
person of color and is famous for her involvement in Voodoo even though she
was notoriously private. Legends say that she was so feared by the Church that
she was given permission to practice rituals behind the St.
Louis Cathedral. Referred to as a “Voodoo Queen” she passed
away in 1881, though there are arguments about when the actual date was. No
trip to New Orleans
is complete without visiting her house,
which is located on Bourbon
Street, and her tomb which is located in St.
Louis Cemetery One. Apparently, her tomb is the second most visited
grave next to Elvis Presley's. Visitors should be wary, it is rumored that Marie's
spirit hasn't left her building and haunts the surrounding area.
The
Voodoo Spiritual Temple, a non-profit organization, may offer a more
insightful view of Voodoo. Priestess Miriam Chamani opened the temple with her
late husband in 1990 and it continues on today. The temple is dedicated to truth
as well as developing powers, both spiritual and mental.
WHERE TO STAY
Voodooing visitors need a place to stay close to all the action. Fortunately,
New Orleans has numerous
accommodations
to suit all budgets.
A number of the upscale
chain hotels are located downtown. Visitors can choose from recognizable hotels
like the The
Westin Canal Place, Hilton
Garden Inn French Quarter and the Royal
Sonesta Hotel.
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| The
French Quarter District in New Orleans 5 |
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Mid-range hotels, such as
the Holiday
Inn New Orleans-French Quarter, are close to shops, restaurants and
Big Easy nightlife. The
Hampton Inn and Suites and The
Clarion, also located in the French
Quarter provide all the expected amenities of their chains.
Those interested in staying
closer to the residents of New Orleans should try a bed
and breakfast for an intimate and quiet escape from the crowded streets.
The
French Quarter Hotel is housed in a building that dates back to 1897
and it offers guests four-poster beds, fireplaces and a continental breakfast.
The
Avenue Inn Bed and Breakfast is located in the Garden
District with a streetcar stop conveniently out front. The tastefully
decorated rooms, friendly owners and accommodating menu make this a great place
for travelers to rest.
There are also a couple
of hostel options to choose from. India
House offers dorm rooms and private cabins, but is known as a party
haven for college co-eds so those looking for a quiet break should be warned.
The Marquette
House International Hostel is the other option for those looking for
less expensive accommodation. Amenities are basic but they provide the use of
the kitchen as well as a washing machine for long-term guests.
WHERE TO EAT
New Orleans has more
than its fair share of great restaurants.
Known for Cajun
cuisine, visitors can try jambalaya or crawfish étouffée, some
of Louisiana's unique
dishes. Mulate's
Restaurant offers visitors a taste of Cajun cooking. Creole,
often considered a classier version of Cajun, is an interesting mix of European
and African flavors with a New Orleans twist. Some favorite dishes include shrimp
creole, grits and the well-known gumbo, which can be sampled at the Gumbo
Shop. For those who want to try a taste of regional Louisiana
cuisine there are restaurants around every corner.
Of course there are lots
of local American
and international eateries in this city. Travelers have their choice of French,
Japanese,
Mediterranean,
and Mexican
among the many dining
options.
Regardless of what tours
one takes or where one chooses to stay and eat, visitors are sure to leave with
an appreciation of the city's history, Cajun flavor and unique Voodoo culture.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF:
- Marie Laveau's Tomb;
New Orleans, LA, USA
- Voodoo Altar; Africa
- St. Louis Cathedral;
New Orleans, LA, USA
- St. Louis Cemetery
Number One; New Orleans, LA, USA
- The French Quarter
District; New Orleans, LA, USA
